No really, it was quite fun. Beside some history, börek, rakia and dancing it involved mainly jokes about ex-Yugoslavia. They LOVE jokes especially if they are politically incorrect and are about another area within ex-Yugoslavia. I guess it is a way to deal with the bumpy past.
After the obvious touristy stuff it was time for some nightlife. I connected with a woman called Nicole from New York and we ended up being in two totally different world's.
We started with a Kafana. A Kafana is many things at once. As the name suggest you can drink coffee but it is more than a simple cafe. It is a place where business is done. A place where you can eat. It is a pub. It is a place where you go for you first date. And this is what we saw. A club with traditional songs of which everybody - expect of of course us - knows the texts.
Let me tell you how we experienced that. We came into this cellar. There was no sign in front but we heard traditional music. We entered and got the table in the corner of the smoke thrilled room. The Serbs handle the smoking rules very traditional. So be prepared for some second hand smoke if you ever visit the Balkans.
"Tourist you know - put them somewhere safe." - The waitress
In the beginning everybody was sitting and drinking. So did we. What happened next is still cryptic to me but the next moment the chairs where shoved aside and everybody was dancing. So did we.
What we learned later. There would have been two more stages: Eventually dancing on the table and later trying to dance under it. We saw neither of those as we moved on to the more contemporary style of clubbing.
In Belgrade they call it "The Cathedral of Techno". A simple club in the industrial part of Old Belgrade. This place used to be a slaughterhouse before it was converted. The atmosphere suits the music and the name seems to be program - "Drugstore".
The next day I was nevertheless way too early on the road again with a long day ahead. The road east out of Belgrade is hilly and full of cars. I enjoyed it. I like riding in traffic. It kind of makes me feel alive and concentrated.
After lunch I left the hilly area behind and flat lands were in front of me. I passed a steel mill which burned coal for energy. Due to the wind, the smell of coal fire accompanied me for another 10km. I connect this smell with some good memories of my youth. During the summer time we sometimes visited family from the area of Cologne who lived next to open pit coal mines. Here though coal has a bad connotation. The coal dust can here be found everywhere. It gives the atmosphere this post apocalyptic mist and the facades of the houses are covered with smut.